Designer Costume jewelry
Har was one of the manufacturers at the forefront of
costume jewellery design in the 1950s. Vet the company's background is wreathed
in mystery—as intangible as the fabulous, green-hued designs for which the firm
is known
The accepted belief was that Har was a Californian company, in production for a short period from 1955. However, jewelry historian Roberto Brunialti recently found information in the copyright files of the Library of Congress in Washington, DC, revealing that Har was owned by Hargo Creations of New York City. In fact, the company was founded in 1955 by a husband-and-wife team, Joseph Heibronner and Edith Levitt.
Jewelry historian Susan Klein
researched the pair, discovering that 1 leibronner was born in 1893 in Munich,
Germany. 1 le became a US citizen in 1948 and married Levitt in 1952. It is
known that I leibronner died in 1968, and no further records of the company
were found after 1967.
Research has also shown that some of the most desirable
Har pieces, such as the "Dragon" designs and the "Genie"
set, can be dated to April 1959, according to U.S. copyright records.
At some point after 1955, the
Har company was renamed "Art," presumably when it changed hands.
Consequently, there are many designs by Har that have been found signed
"Art," where existing designs were revisited by the new owners.
With its unusual and
distinctive metalwork, the company's pieces, stamped "Har," often take
fantastical and exotic forms—dragons, snakes, genies, and oriental and African
figures, sometimes with a matte antique finish. As with much 1950s costume
jewelry design, great use was made of the "aurora borealis" crystal
produced by Swarovski. Its rainbow gleam gave a mystical air to 1 lar's
fabulous creations. The company also excelled at enameling, especially on
figural pieces such as its "Monkey" pin.
Har jewelry is highly collectible. The small production
runs and extraordinary, exotic designs, combined with the company's mysterious
provenance, mean that Har pieces can fetch staggering prices today.
Desirable
pieces and parures, such as the "Dragon" design, with its gold-toned,
green-enameled, sinuous form, set with iridescent stones to fantastical effect,
are much sought after and collectors will pay many thousands of dollars for them.
Other pieces of 1 lar jewelry, in good condition, also command high sums,
including "Cobra" pieces; Oriental figures with faux ivory faces; and
"Arabian Nights Genie" pieces.
Designer Costume jewelry
Designer Costume jewelry |
The metal Har used to make
the bodies of its pieces is soft and can crack, so collectors should check
items for damage and repairs. Similarly, the enameling can wear, affecting
value.
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