Lea Stein














 Lea Stein
 Lea Stein

When the 1960s floated in on a cloud of flower-powered anti- establishment optimism, along with its vision for a new world that included futuristic materials in psychedelic colours, Lea Stein was poised and ready.
Stein was born in Paris in 1931 and trained as an artist. In 1957, she established her own textile design company and, from 1965, began to design and make buttons for the fashion industry. In 1967, she moved to a new process of button-making, which used laminated rhodoid.





The process was developed by Stein's chemist husband, Fernand Steinberger, using a material—similar to Bakelite—which consisted of layers of colored cellulose acetate bake-bonded together. Stein adapted this process to the manufacture of costume jewelry in 1969, adding fabric, lace, metallic inclusions, or even straw between the layers to vary the color and texture of each piece. The composition was pressed, baked, stenciled, cut, and shaped, producing high- impact, polychrome "plastic" jewelry. As a result of the manufacturing process, each piece is unique.





The material was used to make pins, rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, and even jewelry boxes. Although Lea Stein experimented with Art Deco-style geometric designs to great effect, figural pins dominated production. Favorite motifs included animals, birds, insects, children, cars, stars, hearts, rainbows, and eyes.


 Lea Stein


 The process even allowed for rare portrait pins, and pins of Joan Crawford and Elvis Presley were made. Possibly the most famous and highly sought-after is the "Scarlett O'Hara" ballerina pin, its voluptuous red skirt reminiscent of Vivien Leigh's sumptuous costumes in Gone with the wind






However, Stein's signature piece is the "Fox" pin. Due to a clever use of perspective, the fox, with its sweeping tail, appears to be jumping. Further detail is added using fabric or metallic inclusions in the laminate, the variation in texture and color enhancing the three- dimensional quality of each piece. A huge range of finishes is available, including glitter and snakeskin.


 Lea Stein


For collectors, the prize object is a pin from the "L'Tle aux Fnfants" range. Based on characters from a French children's television series, the Casimir, Calimero, and Tiffins designs are charming and, since they were only produced in 1975, very rare. Early vintage pieces, such as the "Tennis Lady," Rolls-Royce, "French Sailor," and saxophone are also avidly collected.




In 1981, the company, which in its heyday had employed 50 people, closed down, and the remaining stock was sold to a dealer. When these pieces reached the United States, Lea Stein's work started to achieve recognition for the first time outside France tfhd her designs became a worldwide phenomenon.





 Lea Stein
Lea Stein began designing again in 1988. Her work is in great demand by collectors, and the limited range of new designs she produces each year is eagerly anticipated.








Designs are marked "Lea Stein Paris." On pins this mark can be found on the distinctive V-shaped clasp. It is difficult to identify pieces to the first or second phase of production, so it is a good idea to contact a rep

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