jewelry manufacturer. Under the aegis of talented designer
Alfred Philippe, the Italian-American company produced a vast range of finely
crafted, innovative styles in the mid-20th century.
Trifari |
He emigrated from Italy to New York City in 1904 and worked with his uncle making costume jewellery. In 1910, they set up a company together called Trifari & Trifari, but Gustavo soon went his own way, establishing Trifari in 1912 to produce high- quality pieces.
In 1917, Leo Krussman joined as sales manager and a year later, having achieved some commercial success, the company became Trifari & Krussman. Karl Fishcl was hired as a salesman in 1923 and helped the company grow further. By 1925, it had become Trifari, Krussman & Fishel (TKF), but was still known as Trifari.
Trifari |
Trifari became a success
story thanks to the quality and range of its jewelry. In the 1930s, the
public's attention was captured by the company's designs for Broadway shows
such as
Roberta, and the Trifari pieces worn by
many Hollywood and Broadway stars.
Alfred Philippe had joined as head designer in 1930, taking Trifari to new heights with his imaginative designs and quality of production. It became the second largest costume jewelry firm in the United States, after Coro. Under Philippe, the company produced two of its most successful lines—"Crown" pins and "Jelly Bellies."
Alfred Philippe had joined as head designer in 1930, taking Trifari to new heights with his imaginative designs and quality of production. It became the second largest costume jewelry firm in the United States, after Coro. Under Philippe, the company produced two of its most successful lines—"Crown" pins and "Jelly Bellies."
Trifari |
The "Crown" pins, produced from the late 1930s to
the 1950s, included a special series for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II
in 1953. Some designs featured brightly colored cabochons, others used clear
rhinestones for a sparkling, monochrome effect.
Alfred Philippe's "Crown" designs from the 1940s feature large cabochons set on heavy vermeil silver, enhanced with rows of colorful rhinestones. These icons of design are avidly sought after and fetch high prices.
Alfred Philippe's "Crown" designs from the 1940s feature large cabochons set on heavy vermeil silver, enhanced with rows of colorful rhinestones. These icons of design are avidly sought after and fetch high prices.
Appearing on the market in
1940, the "Jelly Bellies" had a Lucite "pearl" as their
feature stone and were set in sterling silver or gold plate. The rarest
designs, which include seals, roosters and poodles can command high prices.
Trifari |
Due to wartime metal
restrictions, Trifari was obliged to use sterling silver, as opposed to base
metals, from 1942. This tripled prices but did not have an impact on sales.
After the war, Trifari attempted to revert to less expensive metals, but the
market now demanded silver. To counter this, in 1947 the company introduced
"Trifanium," a special alloy which it used to create cast settings.
It was filed, polished, and plated before being set with "gems."
SEE PART 2 for more on Trifari
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