Trifari Jewelry

Trifari  Jewelry

Trifari  Jewelry

Also from the 1940s are Philippe's "Fruit Salad" or "Tutti Frutti" designs: glass stones molded in leaf or fruit shapes, usually in primary red, green, and blue but also in moonstone, eoral, and turquoise, set into white metal and highlighted with pave-set crystals.

 Philippe's "Fruit Salads" were inspired by Carrier's revival of the Egyptian "Tree of Life" style.

 Collectors seek out Trifari's fruit and vegetable pieces too, especially the miniature fruit pins, released from the late 1950s through the 1960s.

 Finished with matte gold- or rhodium plate, these pins were charming worn singly or highly effective in a group. In 1950,

Trifari  Jewelry

 Alfred Philippe released a collection of patented designs, "Clair de Lune," featuring moonstones. He also created "Moghul" jewelry, a range of heavy pieces designed after the abstract forms of royal Indian jewelry, in ruby, sapphire, and emerald colors, set in gold.

During the 1950s, many companies were quick to emulate the successful lines of their rivals but in 1952, Trifari took Coro to court over design copyright infringement. Trifari won its legal battle against

Trifari  Jewelry

Frenchman Alfred Philippe was Trifari's most influential designer. Philippe had previously designed pieces for William Scheer, who produced fine jewelry for Van Cleef & Arpcls and Carder. He drew on this experience, using the best materials and exacting methods, including the invisible setting technique.




Developed for Van Cleef & Arpcls by Philippe, this method was normally reserved for fine jewelry and required an extraordinary level of craftsmanship. It involved fixing stones from the back, so that from the front it appeared as if there were no mount.

Trifari  Jewelry

Philippe's favorite materials included Swarovski crystals, which resulted in the company being nicknamed the "Diamante Kings." Wartime restrictions meant that non-precious metals could not be used, so Philippe used sterling silver, often plated with gold.

His design flair led to the creation of market successes such as his "Crown" pins from the late 1930s to the 1950s, which led to the crown motif being incorporated into the company's logo from cl937, and the widely emulated Lucite "Jelly Bellies."

Trifari  Jewelry

Coro in 1954, establishing copyright for costume jewelry designs as works of art and, from this point onward, Trifari pieces bore the copyright mark.

Trifari's success was so complete that Mamie Eisenhower, the new First Lady, broke with the tradition of wearing tine jewelry at the presidential inauguration, and commissioned costume jewelry designs from Philippe for the inaugural ball in 1953.

Trifari  Jewelry

 To complement her pink satin gown studded with 2000 rhinestones, he designed an "Orientique" pearl choker, bracelet, and earrings. Mamie Eisenhower was delighted with the result and commissioned Trifari again for her second inaugural ball in 1957.

Through the 1950s and early 1960s, Trifari produced parures in textured gilded metal, set with pearls and rhinestones.

Trifari  Jewelry

 They were ideal for daywear and sold in huge numbers. In 1964, Gustavo In fa, Jnr, Louis Krussman, and Carlton Fishel succeeded their fathers as owners of Trifari. Alfred Philippe retired in 1968, handing over to other designers such as Andre Boeuf. Diane Love designed for the company from 1971 to 1974.






In 1975, the three sons sold Trifari to the Hallmark corporation. Liz Claiborne, Inc. has owned it since 2000.

Marks include "Jewels by Trifari,"

"TKF," and "Trifari." All pieces are marked.

Those made after cl937 feature the crown motif, and those after 1952 bear a copyright symbol, too.