christian
Dior was the most influential
designer of the
1950s, storming the fashion world
with his look
From
1947 he accessorized his clothes
with opulent jewelry, such as flower trembles,
asymmetrical crystal necklaces and animal pins, especially commissioned for each collection.
Christian
Dior was born in Normandy, France, in 1905. He got his break in the
fashion world when he sold sketches to Parisian couture houses,
eventually earning an apprenticeship with Robert Piguet in 1938.
After serving as an officer in World War II for a year, Dior found a position with couturier Lucien Lelong in 1941. It was a challenging and educational environment for Dior: Lelong was attempting to revitalize Paris's couture industry by dressing the wives of Nazi officers and F rench collaborators.
DIOR JEWELLERY |
After serving as an officer in World War II for a year, Dior found a position with couturier Lucien Lelong in 1941. It was a challenging and educational environment for Dior: Lelong was attempting to revitalize Paris's couture industry by dressing the wives of Nazi officers and F rench collaborators.
In
1946, a friend from Normandy gave Dior the opportunity to revive a
struggling clothing company owned by textile manufacturer Marcel
Boussac, the "King of Cotton." Boussac was impressed by
Dior's
idea for a curvaceous new look with full, billowing skirts and agreed
to fund his new couture house. The first Christian Dior couture show
was held in February 1947, and the company was flooded with orders
from the world's most beautiful women, including Rita Hayworth and
Margot Fonteyn.
DIOR JEWELLERY |
I
lowever, post-war women, desperate to bring some glamor back into
their lives, flocked to buy New Look pieces with their hourglass
silhouettes. The opulent, curvaceous shapes w ere accessorized with
crystal jewelry designed for the first Dior collection by the French
manufacturer, Maison Gripoix, or w ith strings of faux pearls,
creating a glamorous and feminine finish.
This
"flow er women" look, as Dior described it, fulfilled a
political agenda, too: women were expected to return to the home as
wives and mothers, leaving the factory and field jobs to demobbed
soldiers. The New Look reinforced that traditional feminine role.
DIOR JEWELLERY |
Maer's
work was original and distinctive, utilizing
Dior
designed pieces of jewelry as an integral part of his collections,
using them to enhance his couture. Initially, he created jewelry for
individual clients, such as Marilyn Monroe and Bette Davis, or for
specific outfits. From 1948 onward, designs were made as part of each
collection. Jewelry pieces were soon being produced under license for
Dior and sold in exclusive stores, a practice which the 1 louse of
Dior continued after the designer's death.
Dior
was insistent that the quality of the costume jewelry designed for
the House of Dior reflected the standard of the couture. Only the
most talented designers and reputable companies were used, including
Henry Schreiner and Kramer in the United States; Mitchell Maer in
England; Henkel & Grosse in Germany from 1955 onward; and in
France Josctte Gripoix and Robert Goossens, who also worked for
Chanel.
DIOR JEWELLERY |
Dior's
jewelry took its inspiration from historical styles, but the designs
were giv en a modern flavor through the use of unusual pastes and
stones, deliberately selected for their artificial colors and forms,
which made the pieces visually challenging and stunning. In this
vein, Dior developed the multi-colored "aurora borealis"
line of Rhinestones with Swarovski in 1955, which were used widely in
his designs. Floral forms were another signature element in his work,
reflecting his love of gardens and the countryside. Lily of the
valley was a particular motif of Dior's and at least one model in
every show
luxurious- looking
rhinestones and faux pearls to underpin the classic- opulence of
Dior's designs. The most popular of his designs echoed Victorian and
Georgian styles, and his "Byzantine" collection was also a
huge success. He is known for his use of floral motifs and for his
unicorn pins, which are avidly sought by collectors today.
6.
A pair of 1950s earrings, in silver-tone metal, with black and clear
rhinestones and faux baroque pearl drops, signed "Christian Dior
by Mitchell Maer". 2in (5cm) long D
DIOR JEWELLERY |
Dior
dominated the fashion world of the 1950s, attracting the elite of
Europe and North America, designing outfits and jewelry for the
Duchess of Windsor and I lollywood goddesses, and employing the most
talented designers, including I'ierre Cardin. In 1957, Dior died of a
heart attack and his financial backer, Marcel Boussac, promoted a
talented 21-year-old apprentice, Yves Saint Laurent, to designer in
chief. In 1960, Mark Bohan replaced Saint Laurent in the role,
followed by Gianfranco Ferre in 1989 and John Galliano in 1996. The
House of Dior remains a global brand today.
AN EYE FOR FASHION
whether it war inspiring the world with the 1947 new
DIOR JEWELLERY |
The pendant necklace from the company's 1950 collection was designed to set off the strapless evening gowns that were fashionable at the time. More recently Galliano has been inspired by the label's past to create couture gowns and jewelry which recall its 1950s masterpieces . For example, the flower earrings shown above, which date from c2005, feature faux tortoiseshell petals, citrine bead drops, and clear rhinestone highlights.($ 120-180/S80-120)
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