WATCH COLLECTING

WATCH COLLECTING

PART THREE OF FOUR

WATCH COLLECTING 

The successful application of the balance spring to the watch in 1675, while overcoming one great problem, showed up another - the in­efficiency of the verge escapement. The best accuracy attainable was about one minute a day depending on conditions.

Much experimentation both on the Continent and in England was carried out in attempts to improve upon the verge escapement. George Graham perfected the cylinder escapement about 1725. Although used in a few English watches, it was not used extensively until the end of the 18th century when the Swiss and French makers dispensed with the tusee and utilized this escapement in their endeavours to meet the demand for thinner more elegant watches. Through persisting with the use of the fusee even in their cylinder watches and declining to adapt the verge watches in order to meet this new fad, the English slowly lost their lead in the overseas markets.

The advantage thus given them was eagerly grasped by the French, who also had the advantage of having at this time an exceptionally artistic as well as technically brilliant horologist - Abraham Louis Breguet (1747-1816). Born in Neuchatel in Switzerland he spent most of his working life in France. Movements of the watches produced during this century included many complicated mechanisms, namely automata, striking, chiming, repeating work, perpetual calendars and so on, as well as incorporating technical improvements needed to achieve precision timekeeping.

WATCH COLLECTING 

WATCH COLLECTING

Repeating mechanisms for watches had been first used in 1685 by Thomas Tompion. By 1700 half-quarter repeaters had been introduced which sounded a single stroke minutes after the previous quarter. Five-minute repeaters were in use by 1750.

A notable advance in this century was the introduction of jewelled bearings. In 1704, Nicholas de Duillier, a Swiss mathematician along with two French immigrant workers, Peter and Jacob Debaufre, took out a patent for 'An Art of Working Precious or more Common Stones (whether Natural or Artificial) Christal or Glass and certain other Matters different from Metals, so that they may be employed and made

use of in Clockwork or Watchwork ' The patent taken out in England

was granted, but when they tried to apply for an extension they were opposed by both lapidaries and watchmakers who then kept the secret to themselves. By 1750 jewelled bearings were appearing in high-quality watches.

WATCH COLLECTING 

Decoration of watches varied over the century. In the first quarter of the century enamelled dials were becoming popular and were in general use by 1750. The so-called 'beetle and poker hands1 were standard until around 1800, continental examples often having pierced hands.

Although using many of the previously introduced techniques of enamelling and so forth, the application to cases altered. The paintings were now confined to panels set into a gold case, with the metal being pierced, chased or set with half-pearls or brilliants. The former were characteristic of many Swiss cases, although the French and Swiss de­signs tended to be similar in most instances. Guilloche or Engine- Turning became widely used towards the end of the century and fre­quently was further embellished with a coloured translucent enamel.

WATCH COLLECTING 

WATCH COLLECTING

The pair case is seen more often in the third quarter of the century, the outer case being plain or covered with fish-skin with silver or gold pin patterning. Matt-surface gold and silver dials also appeared at this time.

Repousse-worked outer cases were common until about 1775, the motifs often being scenes from mythology or the Bible. Repousse work was at its peak mid-century but continued in varying degrees of quality for a further 25 years. The general aim of the case designer at this period was one of restrained elegance.