VINTAGE
CORSET
most
women know exactly what is in their underwear drawer but most men
don't seem to have one. Interested or not, the best antique lingerie
is worth much more than a pretty penny and prices look set to
continue rising.
The
Charles A. Whitaker Auction Company in America
(www.whitakerauction.com)
sold a late 19th century, red satin French corset for £1,740,
Undergarment
history began in ancient times when it was widely functional. In the
Middle Ages, straightforward linen was all the rage.
The
Elizabethan fashion of the 16th century was much more adventurous
with the farthingale (hoop worn under skirt) focusing attention on
childbearing hips.
The
padded silhouette with a flat stomach and narrow waist appeared
toward the end of the Renaissance and was greatly overemphasised
during the 17th century when the corset became a near straight
jacket.
Copious
use of damask, satin or brocaded silk, embellished with embroidery,
disguised the rigid structure of the whalebone within.
If you
had lived through the 19th century, you may have enjoyed its complete
exaggeration: vast full sleeves, a corseted waist, followed by
whalebone hoops and crinolines covered with yards of fabric, flounces
and trims.
If you're
keen on collecting lingerie, the advice is to play it smart and
narrow your focus.
Perhaps
collect 20th century or specialise.
You could
try foundation garments and underwear, like the corset, that has
becom outerwear. Or you could opt for 18th centuy shirts, worn as
underwear by men.
If you
have a desire to preserve history, focus on plain garments, once
affordable to ordinary people.
Vintage Corset |
If you're
keen on the 20th century, look for fine silk, lace and other delicate
underwear fabrics.
Most
petticoats had splendidly frilled edges - a glimpse of an ankle was
an enticing sight in the early 1900s.
A
camisole and up to six layers of petticoats were worn over the
corset too, while stockings and garters were also fastened to it.
The
popular body shape image of the time was achieved by the grotesque
S-bend corset.
/In 1907,
French couturier Paul Poiret heralded
the
beginning of modern fashion and presented a more natural look.
Vintage Corset |
the
If
you like the 1920s, look out for its decadent and provocative style.
They
enjoyed showing their stocking tops to the beat of the Charleston.
The
ideal was a flat chest and a slender body so the corset developed
into more
pliable girdle.
Hollywood
stars of the 1930s,
like Marlene Dietrich and Jean Harlow, emphasised busts and bras with
fitted cups appeared for the first time.
A new
style of line erie developed and man-made fibres,such as rayon, were
used.
The
Second World War offered only the most basic fabrics.
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